Squirrel; it’s What’s for Dinner

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Exploring Kansas Outdoors

By Steve Gilliland

I have a love / hate relationship with squirrels. They’re fun to hear as they chatter and scold you from a backyard tree or from a perch near your deer stand, and their crazy antics are entertaining as they chase each other around a tree or roll around inside a glass jar feeder. But they chisel holes in my new front lawn to bury acorns, and in the spring, our front flower bed would soon become an oak forest if we didn’t pull out all the little oak saplings that spring forth from their buried treasures.

Besides frog season, I thought all Kansas hunting seasons began in the fall and concluded with turkey season in the spring. Now, I knew full well there was a squirrel season in Kansas, but imagine my surprise to find it actually begins in June and runs statewide through the end of February. The daily bag limit is 5 squirrels and the possession limit is 20. Since squirrels are small critters, small firearms like a .410 shotgun or a .22 rifle with a good scope are the best choices for harvesting equipment, and all that’s needed is a general Kansas hunting license. Traditional ways of cooking squirrel are to cut them up into pieces and fry them like chicken, or to roast them whole. But there is an event held each fall in Bentonville, Arkansas that centers around all things squirrel cooking.

Local Bentonville resident Joe Wilson cut his teeth on hunting rabbits, squirrels and other small game before graduating to hunting deer. Bentonville has developed many artsy and historical tourist attractions, even displaying prominent artwork in local hotels, and while Wilson appreciates that immensely, he and other hunters and outdoorsmen his age began to feel that the area was slowly losing its “Ozark flavor,” as he puts it. In 2006, a group of older and retired deer hunters, tired of having to fight each year for good spots to hunt deer, decided to get back to what they all cut their teeth on, hunting squirrels and small game, and the novel organization Squirrels Unlimited, (SqU for short) was formed. Besides helping revive that local Ozark Flavor, a main goal of the group is also to get the youth hunters of today interested in hunting small game like they themselves had done. In 2012, while helping a film crew from the Travel Channel film an episode of “Bizarre Foods,” Wilson was asked if they could cook squirrels. To embellish a little, Wilson told them “Not only do we cook squirrels, we throw the World Champion Squirrel Cookoff.” Wilson said that to cover his lie, they had to scramble to put together the first event which took place in October of 2012. Teams from across the region converged on a warehouse in Bentonville in the middle of a sleet storm, and today the annual World Champion Squirrel Cookoff is so popular it has outgrown several locations.

The rules of the cookoff are simple; each dish must contain 80% squirrel meat. An advertisement for the event in one prominent magazine read “Every fall hundreds of chefs from around the country head to Bentonville, Arkansas to take part in a heated competition. They baste, emulsify, marinade and flambe’. They make everything from bratwurst to lollipops. Yes, welcome to the World Champion Squirrel Cookoff.”  Some of the dishes from past year’s cookoffs have been squirrel poppers made with squirrel loins and jalapeno cheese, minced squirrel brains with cream cheese in a puff pastry, bacon-wrapped squirrel wings, squirrel pizza, squirrel tamales, squirrel dogs, squirrel gumbo, squirrel sliders, squirrel tacos, squirrel dumplings, squirrel enchiladas, and even squirrel flavored ice cream.  Many of the teams are named for their entertainment value as well, with handles like team Chicken of the Tree, the Spice Squirrels and the Rawhide Nut Pirates. Last year’s event even hosted a cookoff team from the Netherlands; not sure how the Dutch know anything about cooking squirrels, but alright.  Cookoff winners are awarded cash prizes and any profit from the event goes to local charities.

Wilson said that as a kid, he collected and sold squirrel tails to Mepps, a large fishing tackle manufacturer that uses the hair from the tails on many of it’s fishing lures. Mepps buys and uses hundreds of thousands of squirrel tails each year, and has become a major sponsor of Squirrels Unlimited and of the cookoff. A squirrel skinning contest has also been added to the event.

Call them tree bacon, limb chicken, tofu of the woods or roof rats, squirrels can be entertaining or they can be a major nuisance. Even though Cousin Eddy from the movie “Christmas Vacation” says he quit eatin’ squirrel cause’ its high in cholesterol, squirrel meat is good, but DOES NOT taste just like chicken. This is yet another chance to take a kid hunting without having to purchase an expensive permit or other hunting equipment as you continue to Explore Kansas Outdoors.

Steve can be contacted by email at [email protected].

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