Menopause is one of those things that, lets face it, will ultimately affect everyone with previously functional ovaries. Unfortunately we dont talk about it enough, which makes it a topic riddled with misinformation. So… what is menopause?

Menopause is defined by the permanent cessation of menstrual bleeding for 12 months. This occurs naturally when the ovaries stop reproductive activity and a marked decrease in ovarian hormones (estrogen and progesterone) occurs. Symptoms of menopause are a result of these hormonal changes.

Most women enter menopause “” or just due to aging. The average age of menopause in North America is 51 years, but that can vary by up to 8-10 years on either side. However, menopause can also occur when the ovaries are surgically removed or if a patient needs to take a medication that affects ovarian hormone secretion, for example certain therapies for breast cancer.

Perimenopause refers to the phase, often lasting 1-2 years, before complete cessation of menses in which a person is likely to experience irregularities in menstrual periods (shorter or longer intervals, lighter or heavier bleeding) and sometimes the start of menopausal symptoms like hot flushes. Some patients will experience problematic or heavy perimenopausal bleeding that warrants medical or surgical treatment.

It is worth noting that laboratory testing is not recommended to diagnose menopause in a patient of typical age range with expected menopausal symptoms. In some cases, especially if a patient is younger than expected, limited testing is warranted to rule out other conditions including pregnancy and thyroid disorders.

Some fortunate women experience no significant symptoms of menopause, but the majority will. The most common symptoms of menopause are the infamous vasomotor symptoms (hot flashes and night sweats) and urogenital symptoms (vaginal dryness and sexual dysfunction). The average duration of vasomotor symptoms after menopause is about 7 years, but approximately 10% of women have symptoms lasting more than 10 years.

Decisions around various options for treatment for these symptoms is highly individualized and depends on how symptoms are affecting a given patients quality of life. Treatment, if warranted, can involve hormonal therapy (replacing estrogen is the most effective way to reduce hot flashes) or various non-hormonal options. This choice necessitates a conversation about an individuals symptom severity and that patients risk of hormonal therapy, including breast cancer, blood clots, and cardiovascular events.

In summary, menopause is indeed a part of life. However, if you are really suffering with symptoms of menopause, it is worthwhile to talk to your healthcare provider about potential treatment for your symptoms.

Kelly Evans-Hullinger, MD. is part of The Prairie Doc® team of physicians and currently practices Internal Medicine at Avera Medical Group in Brookings, South Dakota. Follow The Prairie Doc® at

www.prairiedoc.org, and on social media. Watch On Call with the Prairie Doc, most Thursday’s at 7PM on SDPB and streaming on Facebook and listen to Prairie Doc Radio Sunday’s at 6am and 1pm.

The recent drought conditions have created a need for tree replacement for many of us. Keeping these new young trees healthy will be critical for their survival. Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees such as honeylocusts, fruit trees, ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, and willows are susceptible to sunscald and bark cracks. Sunscald normally develops on the south or southwest side of the tree during late winter. Sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to relatively high temperatures. Research has shown that the southwest side of the trunk of a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer than shaded bark. This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark tissue resulting in cells becoming active. These cells then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops at night. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring. Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. Trees often recover but need special care — especially watering during dry weather.

If you have seen this type of damage in previous years or fear you have susceptible trees, preventative measures are called for. Applying a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the first branches can protect young and/or recently planted trees. This should be done in October to November and removed the following March. Failure to remove the tree wrap in the spring can prove detrimental to the tree.

1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton Plant Science Center
Manhattan, KS 66506 (785) 532-6173

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HNR Website access: https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/

ANNOUNCEMENTS:
The Kansas Forest Service’s Conservation Tree Planting Program offers tree and shrub seedlings, as well as other items for use in conservation plantings. Plantings may function as wildlife habitat, windbreaks, wood lots, timber plantations, or educational and riparian (streambank) plantings. Find out more and order trees by visiting: https://www.kansasforests.org/conservation_trees/

The 74th Annual Kansas Turf & Landscape Conference will be held on
December 4 & 5 (Wednesday & Thursday) at the Hilton Garden Inn,
Manhattan. The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf and
landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest products and supplies from local and national vendors.

The conference has been approved for commercial pesticide recertification hours:
1 Core hour
3A – 7 hours
3B – 7hours

GCSAA education points and International Society of Arboriculture CEUS will also be available by attending the conference. For more information, visit:
https://www.kansasturfgrassfoundation.com/

VIDEO OF THE WEEK:
How to Plant a Tree
(Kansas Healthy Yards-KSRE)

If you’re planting trees this fall, use proper planting techniques to set them up for success.

GARDEN TO-DO
Divide perennials such as peonies and daylilies, if needed.
Prune broken and dead branches from trees.
Remove suckers and watersprouts from fruit trees.
ORNAMENTALS
What to Know About Bulbs
When fall rolls around flower gardeners are likely thinking about planting the usual bulbs, tulips and daffodils. There are many other bulb varieties that can be planted now for a spring show.
Hardy bulbs are the varieties that require a chilling period. For home gardeners this typically means planting in the fall for the delayed gratification of spring blooms.
Here are some hardy bulbs to consider if you want to add more variety to your spring show:
Hyacinth
Allium
Asiatic Lily
Crocus
Snowdrops
Oriental Lily
Time to Plant Spring-flowering Bulbs Approaching
Spring-flowering bulbs can be planted from now through October giving them time to establish roots before winter.
Choose an area with full sun to part shade. Ideally the soil should be sandy loam, but if not, amend it by adding compost to a depth of at least one-foot. Good drainage is essential. Incorporate fertilizer only if recommended based on a soil test. The soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.
Determine the planting depth based on the bulb size. Bulbs the size of tulips and hyacinths are typically planted six-inches deep while daffodil-size bulbs should be six- to eight-inches deep. In general, bulbs should be planted two to three times as deep as their width. This is determined by the distance from the depth the base of the bulb will rest to the soil surface after the hole is backfilled.
Space large bulbs four- to six-inches apart. Small bulbs can be spaced one- to two-inches apart. Mass plantings create a more aesthetically-pleasing display when spring blooms emerge.
Backfill each hole halfway and water in to settle the soil. Replace the remaining soil and water again. Though you will not see above-ground growth in the fall, roots are still growing. Keep the soil moist and add mulch after the soil freezes to provide insulation and prevent bulbs from being heaved out of the soil.

MISCELLANEOUS
Henbit Control
Though more noticeable in the spring, fall is primarily when henbit is germinating.
Henbit is most easily identified by the purple blooms in spring. When large clusters flower they can actually be quite lovely. Henbit serves as an early season nectar source for honeybees.
In lawns, henbit can be prevented by maintaining healthy, dense turfgrass. This includes mowing at the proper height, fertilizing according to recommendations and choosing the right grass variety for the growing conditions.
Preemergence can be used in mid-September and post-emergence can be applied in October for henbit control, if desired. See KSRE publication Henbit and Chickweed for more information.
Planting Trees in the Fall
Fall can be a great time to plant trees so roots can establish before freezing temps arrive. This timing better prepares trees to endure the stress of spring growth and summer heat/drought. Early September to late October is the ideal planting time for most trees. Some exceptions include: beech, birch, redbud, magnolia, tulip poplar, willow oak, scarlet oak, black oak, willows and dogwood. These trees will not be able to establish roots in time to survive the winter.
Newly planted trees require some care even when the above-ground growth is dormant. Keep the soil moist so roots do not dry out. Apply a layer of mulch to regulate the soil temperature and reduce water loss.
Moving Houseplants Inside for the Winter
If you moved houseplants outside last spring, it’s time to start watching the weather and acclimate them to the indoors again.
Before bringing any plants indoors, check for pests. Small populations of insects, such as mites and aphids, can be dislodged by spraying the foliage with a hose. If insects are found in the soil, soak the entire container in lukewarm water for 15 minutes.
Once indoors, continue to monitor for pests to prevent their spread throughout the house. Plants will grow much slower indoors and require less water. Most houseplants will benefit from receiving water only when the soil surface is dry. They will likely not need to be fertilized until spring.
Help plants adjust to the lower light conditions indoors gradually to prevent leaf drop. Initially, place plants indoors near windows that allow in the brightest light. Over several weeks move the plants further away until they’re in the desired location. There are many styles of grow lights that can be used to provide supplemental lighting, if needed. Avoid cold drafts from doors and windows and heat from air vents. These extremes can put plants under stress.
Many houseplants come from tropical locations and favor humid conditions. Kitchens and bathrooms tend to be humid areas inside the home and may be good locations for your plants if space and lighting permits. You can increase humidity by using a humidifier or grouping multiple plants together to create a microclimate.
QUESTION of the WEEK
Weed ID
This plant comes up in my landscape in the fall and quicky spreads. Should I leave it as a groundcover or remove it?

This looks like Glechoma hederacea, commonly known as ground ivy or creeping Charlie. It is a member of the mint family and spreads aggressively. It is acclimated to a variety of growing environments but favors shaded sites with poorly drained, fertile soil.

For small patches, removing by hand can be effective if repeated as needed. To prevent it from establishing in a lawn, maintain healthy, dense turfgrass. In planters, improve drainage by incorporating organic matter, water less frequently and reduce the shade by pruning trees to help control creeping Charlie.

Broadleaf herbicides can be used, but can also cause harm to landscape plants. The decision of whether or not to remove the plants is yours, but know that it will continue to spread if not maintained.

Read more: KSRE publication Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederaceae)

Contributors:
Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor and Horticulture Extension Specialist

Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact your local extension agency.
This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected] or [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.
Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.
K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Cynthia Domenghini, Ph.D.
Instructor; Horticulture Extension Specialist
Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources
Kansas State University
1712 Claflin Rd.
Manhattan, KS 66503
785-340-3013
[email protected]

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