Rabbits may begin to nibble on newly planted trees and shrubs this time of
year. Protect your investment now through this winter with at least
2-foot-tall cylinders of 1-inch-mesh, chicken wire, or similar barrier.
Other control methods include plastic tree wraps and liquid rabbit
repellents sprayed on the plants.
By: Ward Upham
Horseradish is ready to dig after a hard freeze kills the foliage (usually
November or December). The large roots can be harvested while smaller,
pencil sized roots can be cut in 6-8 inch long sections as ‘seed’ or ‘sets’
for next year’s crop which are then immediately re-planted. Another option
is to leave the horseradish in the ground and dig as needed. If you choose
the latter option, be sure to heavily mulch the area so that the ground
doesn’t freeze.
To use horseradish, peel the large, fleshy roots and cut into sections.
Use a blender or food processor to chop the roots along with a small amount
of water and a couple of ice cubes. Vinegar or lemon juice is added to stop
the process that produces the “bite” of horseradish. Add immediately after
blending for a mild flavor or wait up to 3 minutes to give the horseradish
more kick. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice per cup of
horseradish sauce along with ½ teaspoon of salt for flavor. Horseradish has
an extremely strong odor and so you may wish to open the blender or food
processor outdoors and to keep your face away from the container when
opening. Store ground horseradish in a tightly sealed jar in a refrigerator
until ready for use.
By: Ward Upham
Knotweed thrives in compacted soils, so a thorough aeration is the first
step in control. This weed will not compete in a healthy lawn.
Chemically, there are two options. Knotweed is an annual that germinates in
late February or early March, so a preemergence herbicide can be used in the
late fall (about now). Pendimethalin (Scotts Halts), Surflan (Weed Impede),
Barricade, Dimension and XL are labeled for knotweed.
(Note: Pendimethalin, Barricade and Dimension can be used on all Kansas
turfgrasses, while Surflan and XL can only be used on tall fescue and
warm-season grasses). The other option is to use a combination postemergence
product such as Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon or Weed Free Zone after the
knotweed has germinated in the spring but is still young.
If spring seeding is planned, your options are more limited. Buctril can be
used on commercial sites and has a very short residual. It must be used on
very young knotweed to get control. Trimec and others require a month before
seeding. Obviously, don’t use a preemergence herbicide if you are trying to
get new seed established. For homeowners seeding in the spring, tilling will
control knotweed adequately without using a herbicide. If seeding without
tilling (e.g., overseeding using a slicer-seeder), then use a combination
product such as one mentioned above just after the knotweed comes up in the
spring, and be sure to wait at least a month before seeding.
By: Ward Upham
Peas can be planted earlier than just about any other vegetable crop because
they can grow well at a soil temperature of 40 degrees. Though other crops
such as lettuce, parsnips and spinach can sprout at lower temperatures (35
degrees), they don’t start growing well until the soil reaches about 45
degrees. However, soils are often too wet to work in the spring. Let’s hope
that is true this coming year as we need the moisture. Therefore, you may
wish to prepare the soil now rather than next spring so that planting can
take place as early as possible even if those spring soils are wet. Wait
until soil temperatures reach 40 degrees next spring and sprinkle the seeds
on the soil and push them in with your finger. Protection from rabbits and
deer will probably be needed as they will be attracted to anything green
coming up so early.
By: Ward Upham
Cut peony foliage back to the ground if this hasn’t been done already.
Compost or discard foliage. Fertilize peonies twice a year — in the spring
shortly before new growth appears and then again in the fall after the
plants have been cut back. A total of 1.5 to 2 ounces (3 to 4
tablespoons) of a 1-1-1 fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 per plant
per application should be used. This amounts to 3 to 4 ounces of fertilizer
per year. If a soil test reveals adequate levels of phosphorus and
potassium, use a lawn fertilizer such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3 or something
similar, but cut the rate to 1/3 of the above rate. In other words apply ½
to 3/4 ounce (1 to 1.5 tablespoons) per plant. Never apply fertilizer
directly on the center of the peony as the buds (eyes) may be damaged.
Rather, place the fertilizer in a band from 8 to 18 inches from the center
of the plant. Water the fertilizer in so the plant can take it up.
Winter protection of herbaceous peonies is only necessary the first winter
after planting to prevent alternate freezing and thawing from lifting plants
out of the soil. A couple of inches of mulch should be sufficient. Any
organic material that does not mat down will work and should be applied
after the ground freezes. Avoid using leaves that will mat together. Remove
the covering before growth begins in the spring.
The less common tree peonies have woody stems like deciduous shrubs and
should not be cut back to the ground or pruned in the fall. Collect the shed
leaves and place in the compost pile this fall. Though tree peonies are
hardy to Zone 4, they do benefit from a light mulching over winter. Also, it
is recommended that tree peonies be fertilized during November to get the
plants off to a good start next spring. It is best to take a soil test to
see what nutrients are needed. If the soil needs phosphorus and potassium,
use a complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, 9-9-6, etc.) at the rate of 2.5
pounds per 100 square feet. This would equal 1 rounded teaspoon per square
foot.
If phosphorus and potassium are not needed, blood meal makes an excellent
fertilizer.
Apply at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square
foot. Turf fertilizers such as a 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 also can be used but at
the rate of to 1 pound per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per 2 square feet.
By: Ward Upham
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