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Pinwheel Cookies

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This week’s column became a game of process and elimination, seriously! It was like writing down all your favorite holiday recipes, and then labeling them in your favorite order. There were many analogies that went into picking the recipe. It wasn’t based upon taste alone, I also entered in the memories associated with my choices. Lastly; each recipe considered came from the dessert category.

As you can see the winner is the Pinwheel Cookie! Second place for me was Orange Slice Cake and 3rd was Marshmallow Date Roll. There are so many more holiday sweet favorites, my list is extremely long, and I can never make them all every year. However; I do make plenty of time to pick those that are favorites of guests coming into our home. I think most good cooks do the same thing.

Cookies have been around since the 7th century AD, but many say they made a big arrival in the 20th century in France. Interestingly enough the pinwheel in America became popular in the 1930’s and was considered a food by-product of the great depression. I had no idea about that part! When you examine the ingredients, you will find there’s not a huge amount of sugar and no icing. Also dried fruits were a very common thing, and economical. Fillings today can be all sorts of things like chocolate, strawberry etc.

As we sit down at the many dinners filling this season, I would like to pose a question regarding the serving of dessert! I’ve tried narrowing this question down and asking Ms. Manners, but so far, I haven’t gotten the answer I was hoping to find. So here goes: When you have a dining event in your home and let’s say there are 10 people present, what is the protocol for dessert? As a frequent host my answer remains: Dessert is served when those who are dining are finished with the main meal, most particularly, the host/hostess. This would be after the entrée & salad dishes have been removed from the table. For many years, I have observed people practically running for the dessert table when there were 2-3 people still eating the main course. (Yes, at big functions, I serve more than one dessert, and I sometimes make a dessert ‘display’.) I feel this rush to the dessert table, before everyone is done eating is just poor manners, in general!

When there’s a super large gathering of people our expectations definitely need to modify. Especially when things are served buffet style. Sometimes I also think the proximity to the kitchen makes a difference in how people act. I enjoy allowing folks time to digest the large dinner, tidy a few things, then serve the after-dinner coffee & dessert. OK, so I was raised by parents with high expectations when it came to dining. We also knew how to dress when we dined within our home, a restaurant or friend’s home….’Ut oh’ perhaps I better close out this dessert discussion before I bury myself in this one. My hostess decision is the next time my repeat offender comes to our home I will handle dessert totally different. The presentation will not be seen or displayed prior to the meal. And if someone jumps up and starts to head for the desserts, I’ll just politely say: ‘Let’s wait please, as some are still enjoying their dinner, etc.’

I’ll be making at least a double of the pinwheel recipe because they freeze so wonderfully. The hour is quickly approaching for this elf to get some much-needed rest. I hope your holiday season is filled with joy and peace, as we celebrate the real reason for the season. Merry Christmas, Debbie, ‘The Covered Dish’.

Date Pinwheel Cookies

1 cup softened butter

1 cup white sugar

1 cup brown sugar

3 eggs, beaten

4 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

Date Filling

1 pound dates, finely chopped

½ cup white sugar

¾ cup water

1 cup finely chopped nutmeats, Walnuts or Pecans

Cook the filling ingredients except the nuts over low heat until the mixture becomes pasty, adding chopped nuts at the end; cool.

Cream together the butter with the white sugar and the brown sugar. Add the beaten eggs to the mixture, blending until smooth. In a separate bowl combine all the dry ingredients: flour, soda, cinnamon & salt. Add to the creamed mixture, blending well.

Divide the dough in half and roll each portion about ¼ inch thick, as if you’re rolling cinnamon rolls. If dough is too soft, place in the refrigerator 1-2 hours. Another consideration is to roll the dough between parchment paper or waxed paper for easier handling. Split the date filling in half for each log. Spread the date fill over the dough within one-half inch of the outer edge.

Roll up the dough and slice ¼ in thick. (I like to refrigerate mine before slicing.) Bake on parchment-lined baking sheet at 350 degrees for approximately ten minutes.

Twas the Night before Christmas

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Twas the night before Christmas and all through the house,

Not a creature was stirring EXCEPT that darn mouse.

It chewed and it rustled so to honor my spouse,

I set out some traps for that darn pesky mouse.

We don’t have a chimney, or mantle or poker

And the nearest we own to a fireplace is a smoker.

Our stockings were all holey and strewn under the bed,

So our old hunting boots hung by the smoker instead.

Our puppy was nestled all snug in her bed

Under the laundry room table with her stuffed toy named Fred.

She quivered and whimpered; to watch her was funny

As she dreamed she would finally corral that ol’ bunny.

My pj’s were long johns, all cozy and white

And I crawled into bed and turned out the light.

Deer season had ended with no deer in the shed

So visions of deer jerky danced in my head.

My wife lay beside me in jammies of red

She was already dreaming of Claus and his sled,

When out in the drive there arose such a ruckus

I sprang from my bed to see what had struck us.

I should have known not to “spring” from my bed

Cause I busted my big toe and clobbered my head.

As I limped up the hallway I grabbed my deer rifle

I’d show them I was someone with whom not to trifle!

I peered out the window and what did I see?

Why old Santa himself, alive as could be.

And there stood old Rudolf in all of his glory,

With his nose shining brightly just like in the story.

But all I could see was his head on my wall .

With that bright red nose twinkling to brighten my hall.

His rack was enormous, at least twenty points,

The thought of its score made me weak in my joints

I wanted that rack, whether legal or not,

So I eased out the door to line up my shot.

I clicked off the safety and steadied myself

So I wouldn’t endanger the Jolly Old Elf.

Now remember those traps I’d set out before?

Well there happened to be one right by the door.

While I tried to be sneaky so no one would know,

That trap clamped its jaws around my sore big toe.

I jerked on the trigger and the shot went astray

And ended up lodged in the front of the sleigh.

The reindeer all spooked and yanked on the sled

Dumping St Nick on the floor on his head.

They shot out the drive as slick as a whistle

And away they all flew like the down of a thistle,

But I heard him exclaim as they drove out of sight

Rudolph you blockhead; no more deer hunters tonight!

Unraveling Medical Myths

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Myths are just stories we tell ourselves and others to make sense of the world around us. Myths convey beliefs or values and attempt to tell truths. In their effort to tell the truth, myths may exaggerate or misrepresent things. Sometimes this misrepresentation is innocent, while other times it is used as a tool to regulate or manipulate people. Myths can be used to give a sense of power and control over an overwhelming situation.

Of the many types of myths, ones that deal with medicine are particularly common. A person’s life can feel out of control during times of sickness or injury. It is easy to feel powerless when one’s body is not feeling or acting normally. A story that helps explain why this is happening can be comforting. A story can assign blame to whom or what caused this. It can also serve as a lesson or a warning to others. In every myth there is usually some small bit of truth that makes it believable.

Look at the myth “going out with wet hair will cause you to catch pneumonia”. It serves as a warning; if you do this, you could put your health in danger. Countless college students running late to early morning classes have tested this myth, including me. Science has proven that bacteria or viruses in the air entering your lungs cause pneumonia, not wet hair.

If you Google “Does going out with wet hair make you sick” – you will get over 50 million results in less than a second. If you look long enough, you will find at least one page to support whatever stance you want to take on this. Mayo clinic and Cleveland clinic both have websites stating this is a myth. Some websites say “this is a myth, but…” They go on to hypothesize subtle correlations between having wet hair and lowering nasal passage temperatures just enough to increase susceptibility to a virus that may already be there. Of course, there will always be grandmothers who insist that they are right, regardless of what any doctor, institution, or the internet says.

We live in an age of easy information. With so many answers and opinions, it is very easy to get overwhelmed and not know who or what to believe. This is why we at the Prairie Doc have strived to bring in experts each week to help give health information that is based on Science and built on Trust. We know that without science, we cannot bring you accurate information. More importantly, without trust, it really does not matter what we tell you. We hope that over the last twenty years we have earned that trust. Please continue to tune in to South Dakota Public Television, Facebook, or YouTube and ask those questions. We are here for you and truly look forward to discussing your questions each week. We will help you separate medical myth from fact so you can “Stay Healthy Out There”.

Jill Kruse, D.O. is part of The Prairie Doc® team of physicians and currently practices as a hospitalist in Brookings, South Dakota. Follow The Prairie Doc® at www.prairiedoc.org and on Facebook and Instagram featuring On Call with the Prairie Doc®, a medical Q&A show providing health information based on science, built on trust, streaming live on Facebook most Thursdays at 7 p.m. central.

Year Around Indoor Plants

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Most of the houseplants we enjoy in the home are tropical, meaning they will not survive our outdoor environment. So we bring them inside for the winter so we can continue to enjoy them year-round. Plants need to be fertilized to ensure proper growth and development, especially during the late spring and summer months when warmer temperatures encourage growth. However, fertilizer requirements for most plants need to be reduced during the winter months. At this time watering should also be reduced to correspond with the decline in plant growth. Fertilizing is not necessary right after repotting if a potting mix with compost or other amendments is used. The media will have readily available nutrients and will be able to sustain plant growth. Begin fertilizing again when the plant shows signs of reduced, but active growth. Refer to the instructions on the bag of potting medium to determine when plants should be fertilized. Also, remember not to use a high-nitrogen fertilizer when plants are in bloom. This will result in more foliage production and less flowers.

It may be necessary to periodically flush the soil to leach soluble salts that have built up over time from fertilizer usage. Soluble salt damage (stunted growth, chlorotic or necrotic foliage, and injured roots) is most commonly caused by over-fertilization. All plants need soluble salts to thrive but in varying quantities so read the fertilizer container label carefully. To do this, add water to the container, approximately four to five times the soil volume, to push the salts through the drainage hole in the bottom of the container.

Horticulture 2023 Newsletter No. 49

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https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

Blog Post: http://www.ksuhortnewsletter.org

Video of the Week: Plant Amaryllis Bulbs for Winter Color

https://kansashealthyyards.org/all-videos/video/amaryllis-for-winter-color

VEGETABLES

Storing Potatoes in Cold Temperatures

Ideally, potatoes should be stored in a cool garage or basement where the relative humidity is 90% and the temperature is between 40- and 45-degrees F. Although they can be stored for long periods of time in temperatures below 40-degrees F, the starches begin converting to sugars which alters the flavor of the potatoes. If this happens in your storage area, keep the potatoes at room temperature for two to three days prior to consuming and the desired flavor should return. If stored above 45-degrees F for prolonged periods of time, the potatoes will begin to sprout. Potatoes will become soft and shriveled if the relative humidity is too low. Storing potatoes in perforated plastic bags will help maintain higher humidity levels. (Cynthia Domenghini)

ORNAMENTALS

To select a live Christmas tree that will last the holiday season avoid these red flags.

Dull, gray-green needles
Dry, stiff and brittle needles
Needles drop from tree easily
Some commercial sites sell cut trees that have already been stored for several weeks so evaluate these carefully before purchasing.
When you get your tree home, recut the trunk about one inch above the base just before placing it in the stand. This will open up the plant tissues that enable the tree to pull in water. Place the trunk into the stand with water immediately after cutting.
As with traditional houseplants, avoid placing your Christmas tree near heat sources or drafty windows and doors. It is important to always keep water in the tree stand reservoir. If the cut end of the tree is exposed to air for several hours it will begin to seal over and need to be recut again. Fresh cut trees tend to absorb a lot of water during their first couple of weeks so check the water level at least every other day. Ensure the base of the tree has access to the water in the stand as the level drops.

Living trees are a great option for homeowners who have space to add to their landscape. This requires a bit more planning by selecting a tree that will work in your landscape and climate. It is also a good idea to dig the hole where the tree will be planted prior to when the ground freezes so it can be planted soon after the holidays.

Living trees should only be kept indoors for a few days. Trees kept indoors too long will come out of dormancy and initiate new growth. If the tree is then moved outdoors during winter, it will not be hardy to the cold conditions and can suffer extreme damage or even death. At planting, water the tree in well and apply a layer of mulch to prevent the water from freezing. (Cynthia Domenghini)

FLOWERS

Care of Christmas and Thanksgiving Cacti

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) look exotic but are rather easy to maintain with the right growing conditions. While in bloom, water the plants when the soil surface is just becoming dry to the touch. Never let the plants remain in standing water and well-drained soil is a must.

Holiday cacti bloom in response to the shorter days and cooler nights we experience heading into winter. If you are gifted a Christmas cactus this season, to prolong the bloom, keep the daytime temperature between 60-65 degrees F and the nighttime temperature between 55-65 degrees F. Keep your cactus in total darkness for at least 12 of every 24 hours. The plant should receive bright, indirect light for the rest of the time. Sudden changes in temperature can cause the cactus to drop its blooms. When transporting it home be mindful of the outdoor temperature and take measures to protect your plant from the cold.

The segments of the holiday cactus that look like leaves are actually stems known as “phylloclades”. When your cactus finishes blooming, you can prune it at the union of two of these segments. Each cut phylloclade remaining on the parent plant will produce one to two new stem segments. This will encourage branching and a fuller plant. The cuttings removed from the plant can be propagated into new plants. Dip the cut-end of the stem into water and then rooting hormone, which can be purchased at garden centers or online. Secure this end into potting mix and keep it moist and in a warm location with bright light. Once roots develop you can transplant it into a cactus/succulent media.

While the parent plant is not blooming, decrease the water and care for it as you would a typical houseplant. When the danger of frost has passed, holiday cacti can be moved outdoors in part shade. Beneath a tree is a great location that will provide filtered light. If the stems begin to turn pale they may be receiving too much light. Fertilize once each month in June, July and August at half-strength with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. As the temperature drops to the low 50s at night bring your cactus back indoors. When flower buds begin to develop switch to a fertilizer low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. (Cynthia Domenghini)

MISCELLANEOUS

Heat Value of Firewood

Certain tree varieties produce firewood that gives off more heat than others. Osage orange, honeylocust, black locust, bur and post oaks all have high heat values. However, osage orange firewood tends to spark which can be dangerous, especially in an open fire. If you’re harvesting your own firewood, it is beneficial to note wood from certain species, such as black locust and elms, is difficult to split.

The Kansas Forest Service has published a great resource for landowners about this topic: “Managing your Woodland for Firewood”.

Homeowners who plan to purchase firewood should buy local to avoid spreading pests including Emerald Ash Borer. The chart below ranks the woodland species in terms of the heat value (measured in British Thermal Units, BTUs) per cord of wood. A cord is the amount of wood, stacked well, in a pile that measures 4 feet wide by 8 feet long by 4 feet high. Higher BTU values indicate more heat produced. (Cynthia Domenghini)

Tree Variety

BTU

Ash, Green

22.8

Cottonwood

15.9

Elm, American

19.8

Difficult to split

Elm, Red

20.6

Difficult to split

Elm, Siberian

20.9

Difficult to split

Hackberry

21.0

 

Honeylocust

25.6

Locust, Black

28.3

Difficult to split

Maple, Sugar

24.0

Maple, Silver

18.9

Mulberry

25.3

Oak, Red

24.0

Oak, Bur

24.9

Oak, Post

25.6

Osage Orange

32.6

Tends to spark

Sycamore

19.5

Difficult to split

Walnut, Black

21.8

Contributors:

Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor and Horticulture Extension Specialist

Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources

1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton

Manhattan, KS 66506

(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact: [email protected], [email protected] OR [email protected]

This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:

http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected], [email protected] or [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.

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K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, as amended. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, and United States Department of Agriculture Cooperating, Ernie Minton, Dean.