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Fall Gardens

By
Guest Columnist
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Have you ever tried to plant a fall garden? Fall is often overlooked because people have lost interest under the summer heat but it is a great time to grow vegetables! Crops planted during the late summer conditions ripen under cooler temperatures, which often make the bounty better than spring-planted crops.

Just imagine the taste of fresh lettuce, spinach or other crops ripe for the picking on a cool, crisp, autumn day. That dream can happen easily with a little planning in July, August, and September.

Crops that are best adapted to fall culture are mainly the cool-season vegetables, as well as cucumbers, summer squash and green beans. The first frost will damage some crops, but others will continue to thrive in the cool weather.

Planting dates are influenced by how long it takes for the crop to develop and its ability to withstand a freeze.

Late July through early August
Cucumbers, summer squash and beans can be planted from late July through early August. Transplants of broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage can be planted about the same time.

Early to mid-August
Carrots and beets are planted from early to mid-August.

Early September
Lettuce, spinach, radishes and turnips can be planted in early September.

Fall planting is different than spring planting
The main obstacles faced by fall gardeners are the extreme conditions under which the plants must establish. The use of transplants is one way to overcome this, as they become established more quickly than seeds do. Set seeds slightly deeper than recommended for spring planting. This helps keep them cool and moist as they germinate and develop roots. Planting a little thicker also helps to ensure a good stand. Thick plantings can be thinned for proper spacing. Placing a thin layer of mulch over the seed row will reduce the chance of seeds being washed out and of soil compaction from water. The mulch will help conserve moisture under the hot Kansas sun.

Water and fertilizer
Water on a regular basis or as needed as the garden becomes established. A light application of fertilizer may be helpful, as much of the spring-applied nutrients have been used. There are no other special requirements for fall vegetable gardening. In fact, there may be fewer weeds and also a decrease in insects and disease after the summer is over.

Plan for your fall garden. A small space in the landscape will be just right for a planting of lettuce or a patch of radishes. You will be sure to enjoy the fruits of your labor in the fall with a tasty treat from the garden.

Hort Newsletter #30

By
Guest Columnist
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KSU horticulture

[email protected]
​
Attention: The blog version of the Hort Newsletter is currently unavailable. I am including access to the pdf version of our newsletter as well as the full text included below. We hope to have the new online newsletter format available soon.

Download and print the Hort Newsletter
(Downloadable version)

HNR Website access: https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/

1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton Plant Science Center
Manhattan, KS 66506 (785) 532-6173

ANNOUNCEMENTS
K-State Garden Hour
Establishing a More Environmentally Sustainable Lawn
Wednesday, August 1st from noon to 1:00 PM (CST)
Whether you are interested in reducing your water bill or supporting pollinators, there are alternatives to growing and maintaining typical turfgrass lawns. Sharon Ashworth, Douglas County Horticulture Extension Agent, will discuss reducing the water, herbicides and fertilizers used on fescue lawns and replacing fescue grass with low-growing alternatives that support our pollinators.

Register for the free, live Zoom webinar here: https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/consumer-horticulture/garden-hour/

2024 Kansas Turf and Ornamentals Field Day
August 1, 2024, at Rocky Ford Turfgrass Research Center in Manhattan, KS. https://www.k-state.edu/turf/events/2024TurfFieldDayProgram.pdf

VIDEO OF THE WEEK:
Dividing Irises

GARDEN TO-DO
Remove sucker growth and watersprouts from fruit trees
Prepare to plant the fall garden – avoid deep tilling
Mid-August direct seed: leafy lettuce varieties, beets, mustard, arugula, Swiss chard, kale, turnips, radishes, green onions, Bok choy

VEGETABLES
Green Beans Producing Flowers but not Beans
Temperature is a key factor affecting bean production. High (above 85 degrees F) and low (below 70 degrees F) can cause plants to create flowers but not beans. Inconsistent soil moisture can also inhibit bean development and is exacerbated by hot, dry winds.

Proper crop management is the best way to mitigate these problems. Mulch surrounding plants regulates soil temperature and moisture. Using a windbreak crop, such as corn, can protect the bean plants from drying winds. Harvest regularly to encourage plants to continue producing. If beans are left on the plant past their peak harvest time the plant will use energy to produce seed rather than create new beans.

FRUIT
Watering Fruit Plants During Summer
Ensure fruit trees are receiving adequate water to get the best harvest. Heat and drought stress restrict cell division which affects the size of the mature fruit even if water is added later. It can also lead to leaf wilt and discoloration as well as leaf and fruit drop. Bud development for next year’s crop could also be hindered.

Monitor the soil at the rootzone to prevent problems. A wooden dowel or metal rod can be used to probe the soil. If it is difficult to insert the probe 8-12 inches the soil is likely too dry. Add water to the rootzone slowly. Test with a probe again and once it can reach 12 inches easily, the moisture level should be adequate.

When the weather is hot and dry, monitor the fruit plants. Moisture level of newly planted and shallow-rooted crops should be checked at least twice a week.

TURF
Crabgrass Control
Crabgrass is a common weed in lawns this time of year particularly in sparse lawns. The blades of this warm-season, annual are flat, wide and lighter green than the desired turfgrass. Crabgrass dies back after setting seed or the first frost leaving bare spots in the lawn. At that time cool-season grasses should begin to flourish and fill in the spaces. If you have crabgrass in your lawn now you can expect it again next year since it is so efficient at re-seeding.

Preventing crabgrass from establishing in the lawn is the best method of control. Maintain a thick, healthy lawn to stop crabgrass seeds from germinating. Mow your lawn no shorter than three-inches to help prevent sunlight from reaching the seeds on the soil surface. Pre-emergence can be used in spring.

At this point in the season, it is too late for a crabgrass preventer. Manually removing crabgrass plants is recommended for small areas and light infestations. There are some herbicides that will kill crabgrass including: Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Fertilome Weed-Out with Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-ERad and BioAdvanced Lawn Weed & Crabgrass Killer. Each of these contains quinclorac, which is a crabgrass herbicide, as well as other active ingredients that control broadleaf weeds. Quinclorac can also provide control for foxtail and certain other broadleaf weeds such as field bindweed, black medic and clover. Be sure to bag your clippings if you use a crabgrass killer and don’t use them as mulch or compost.

Summer Watering for the Lawn
Buffalograss is a drought-tolerant grass and often survives summers without regular watering. Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass require less water during stressful summers than cool-season species. The recommended approach for watering established lawns is to wait for signs of general drought stress, and then apply sufficient water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root system. Established turfgrass indicates drought stress by turning a dull, blue-green color. When you walk on drought stressed grass it tends to stay flattened rather than popping back upright.

Use a screwdriver or metal rod to determine how deeply water has penetrated the soil. Push the tool into the ground until you reach dry soil. The tool will pass easily through moist soil but will stop when it comes in contact with dry ground. Remove the tool from the soil and measure to determine depth of watering.
An established tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawn has the capacity to enter a dormant condition when under drought stress and may survive several weeks or more without water. After that, it’s important to provide ¼ inch of water, if rainfall is insufficient, every couple of weeks to keep the crowns alive. With this approach, properly maintained, established bluegrass and fescue lawns, growing on good soil, can survive up to eight weeks without substantial irrigation.
Note: Because early fall is the time to perform important cultural practices on cool-season lawns such as fertilization, core aeration, and overseeding, it is wise to water dormant lawns deeply in mid to late August to establish the soil’s moisture reserve and revive dormant lawns so they can respond to these practices.

MISCELLANEOUS
Prioritizing Water in the Landscape
During periods of drought, it may be necessary to prioritize which plants will be first to receive supplemental water due to city-imposed water restrictions, cost and time.
Start with the large, established trees. These are the most difficult and expensive to replace if they don’t survive. They also take the longest to become established. While they may not require supplemental water during a short drought period, if prolonged established trees can suffer. Next, care for the young trees which are still developing their root systems.
Shrubs come next, followed by perennials, lawn and finally, annuals. This order will direct your attention to the plants that have had the most invested in them saving you time and money if you must replace plants that don’t survive. See below for tips to increase watering efficiency.

Watering Young Trees and Shrubs
Young trees and shrubs have not established the root system necessary to survive extreme heat and dry spells without supplemental water. After planting, it is essential to keep the root ball area moist for several weeks, but even a couple years later it may be necessary to periodically apply water to the area. Newly planted trees should receive 10 gallons of water weekly. Here are some tips for watering to eliminate waste and meet plant needs.
Direct water where it is needed (avoid watering hardscapes!)
Do not water on windy days
Water between 6 PM and 10 AM to reduce evaporation
Assess soil moisture before adding water to the landscape
Apply the water slowly so it can sink deep into the root zone
Build a reservoir (three to four-inches tall) around trees to keep the water in the desired area.
Use a water bag, or five-gallon bucket with a 1/8-inch hole drilled in the base, to direct water to the base of trees.
Mulch around plants to retain moisture and moderate soil temperature
Understand water requirements of your plants. Provide water to plants only if needed, not based on a schedule.

Cicada Killer Wasps
Description: At about 1 ½-inches long, cicada killers are an intimidating wasp. They have reddish colored wings and legs and a black abdomen with wide, yellow stripes. Cicada killers live independently though nests may be relatively close to each other. Females have a stinger which is used to paralyze their prey. They rarely sting people unless agitated. Males are smaller and do not have a stinger.
The female wasp is responsible for locating cicadas and paralyzing them with her stinger. She then carries the cicada back to her burrow. Each burrow can house up to 20 cicadas.
Life Cycle: Adult females lay a single egg on each cicada they drag into the ground. Eggs hatch in two to three days into legless, white grubs which feed on the cicada. The larvae then create a protective case in which to overwinter. Adult wasps die in early fall. In spring the larvae pupate in the pupal cases and emerge as adults in June/July. There is one generation per year of cicada killers.
Damage: Cicada killers typically cause very little damage to the landscape. A heavy infestation may become a nuisance as they protect their nests. The burrows may be considered unsightly, especially in a lawn area.
Control: Cicada killers prefer well-drained, light soils in full sun. They may burrow along sidewalks or flowerbeds but do not like areas covered with mulch. Maintaining a thick, healthy lawn is the best control for preventing burrows. Pesticides are not usually necessary since adults are only present for about two months beginning mid to late summer.
SCHOOL GARDEN CONTENT
Fall Gardening at School
Students are heading back to the classroom and they’re just in time to plan and plant the fall garden. This doesn’t have to be a monumental feat. With a single container, students can have a meaningful hands-on learning experience and some tasty veggies too!

Read more about Fall Gardening at School (KSRE publication).

QUESTION of the WEEK
Is rock mulch the same as organic mulch?
We have some mature trees under which nothing much grows. If we put rocks around the tree but not right up to the trunk–is this okay?

One benefit of rock mulch is it doesn’t need to be replaced as frequently as bark since it doesn’t break down. This is also a disadvantage since it doesn’t contribute to soil improvement as organic mulches do. If you’re going to use rocks as mulch, they need to be small, such as pea gravel. Rock mulch can generate more heat, so ensure this is a good fit for the landscape plants. Consider organic options and select the best mulch for your growing conditions. Larger rocks such as river rock or cobblestones can be nice decorative elements in a landscape, but should not be used as mulch.

Contributors:
Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor and Horticulture Extension Specialist
K-State Turfgrass

Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact your local extension agency.
This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected] or [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.
Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.
K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Cynthia Domenghini, Ph.D.
Instructor; Horticulture Extension Specialist
Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources
Kansas State University
1712 Claflin Rd.
Manhattan, KS 66503
785-340-3013
[email protected]

Cucumber Marinate

By
Debbie Dance Uhrig
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Pfew, just returned from a super busy road trip back to see my dad, in Lewistown, Missouri. We did lots of work at dad’s home and cooked up a few good meals.

Had to come home to rest, I bet many of you can relate to my scenario!

While we were home our neighbors took care of us, as usual. We came back with English cucumbers, tomatoes and cantaloupe. Not to mention a night of awesome pie with friends. It was all a wonderful treat. I see a week of BLT’s, tomato sandwiches and more Blt’s and tomato sandwiches.

I knew immediately I would be putting the cucumbers into the marinate I am sharing today. Many of you may have this recipe. It is simplistic, (one of my ‘key’ words) handy and delicious. I even make this marinate in the winter using English Cucumbers. The English Cucumber has a ‘burpless’ nature due to its very small seeds. Unlike the giant cucumbers in the grocery store these won’t upset the digestive track with heartburn and burping. For those who don’t purchase English Cucumbers in the store; these are the ones sealed in plastic. For a gathering I usually use 3 English for this marinate. If they are on sale in the off-season, you can usually get them for 1-1.25 each. That’s pretty economical for a healthy side.

This week the last peaches will be used in 1 or 2 desserts and the garage refrigerator will be clear once again. Those with extra refrigerators know how that can get!

Next on my project list is a bit of furniture work. I enjoy sanding and re-vamping things that were old into something new again. Also; going to try my hand at a bit of simple upholstery work. Then; there’s sewing projects to complete. My dad looked at me this weekend and asked me how in the world I get everything done?

Well, I don’t sit still too well, there are lots of lists flying around to keep me organized! Even though my house doesn’t look like it sometimes!

Rumor, our corgi, had a great time at grandpa’s. She’s a wonderful traveler and good company. I’m off for a bit more rest, embracing a week that I’m titling,

‘re-organize’, and forging full-speed ahead. May your week be full of blessings

and over-abounding joy. Simply yours, The Covered Dish.

Cucumber Marinade

1 cup of mayonnaise

1/2 cup sugar or substitute of choice

Vinegar to thin, add gradually to thickness desired

4 cucumbers, sliced, I leave the peel on these days

1 medium onion, red is pretty, I also like sweets

Dry dill or fresh

Blend the ingredients together using a whisk, until smooth. Add the cucumbers and onions along with dill and allow to marinate. This dressing will last about a week in the refrigerator and you can add more cucumbers as you go along.

Gender Neutrality in the Great Outdoors

By
Steve Gilliland
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With all the political upheaval right now, and with candidates’ policies from both sides being tossed around like so much manure from the spreader, I just can’t seem to get past some of the more liberal ideas. One that particularly vexes me is the substitution of “politically correct” pronouns in place of words and phrases that have been used for generations, like “mom and dad,” many of which are even Biblical.

I’ve decided I better brush up on my “gender neutral” writing skills, and look at me, I couldn’t make it through the first paragraph without possibly offending someone. I really should have used the pronouns “human who carried and birthed me” and “human who provided the other half of the equation” in place of “mom and dad.” I’m concerned a restaurant “MENu” will soon become “a list of possible dishes for purchase,” Men at Work” signs will have to read “Male of the Human Species attempting to earn a living while leaning on a shovel.” And if you’re looking for an investment or to open a small business, my money would go into a sign company, as there are probably countless bathroom doors across this land in need of new signage.

And the great outdoors will not be immune to the new gender-neutral verbiage either, as every species on this earth comes with both sexes, if that’s still a thing. Some species won’t be affected much, as we usually don’t categorize them as one particular sex or the other when referring to them. For instance, fish are usually just fish, coyotes are usually just coyotes, bears are usually just bears, etc. References to some wildlife though will have to become gender-neutral. When referring to deer, elk and moose, bucks and bulls will have to be called “representatives of the species that grow antlers in the summer, lose them in winter and are tasty when made into summer sausage, jerky and tenderloins.” Does and cows will need to be referred to as “representatives of the species that grow no antlers, and often taste even better than the representatives that grow and lose antlers.” Neither will the terms “hen” and “rooster” be allowed when referring to pheasants. Roosters will possibly be known as “brightly-colored representative of the species that grow long tail feathers and taste yummy with a side of ranch.” Hens might be “dingy-colored representatives of the species that raise the young and are never spoken of when shot by mistake.” Although

peacocks are rarely spoken of by gender, they are in fact peacocks and peahens. That won’t work for sure, so male peacocks will become known as “representatives of the species that grow big beautiful tailfeathers and roost above your car at night, making the expected mess.” Peahens will become “drab colored representatives of the species that raise the young and roost at night where they will also make the same mess on your car below.”

Now, I know these new gender-neutral animal and wildlife descriptions can get quite wordy, but anything to be politically correct and stay abreast of the new “woke “generation, and all you who know me know I’m all about political correctness. By the way, “woke” now means “alert to injustice in society, especially racism,” and no longer has anything to do with the old-fashioned description of getting up in the morning, when I’m the crankiest…Continue to Explore Kansas Outdoors.

Steve can be contacted by email at [email protected].

Car & truck memories

By
Milo Yield
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Thayne Cozart
Milo Yield

Recently at our Ol’ Geezer Gang morning coffee klatch the conversation turned to old cars. Many of the models that came to our aging minds we thought of as either “vintage, jalopies or just plain junk.”

I’m glad we happened upon that automotive conversation becuz now I have some “vintage” or “junk” vehicular memories to share with my faithful readers.

So, let me start with a vintage car — a Kaiser-Frazier — that wuz given to the Yield clan by my paternal grandmother when I wuz in high school. The low-mileage car stamped my childhood memory with several unique traits.

I think it wuz a 1949 model. It wuz shiny black when it arrived in our yard. It wuz adorned with what must have been a half a ton of sparkling chrome on the grill, both front and rear bumpers, along the edge of the running boards, around all the lights, and a spear-like hood ornament. My pappy, Czar E. Yield, thought he’d hit the automotive jackpot.

Alas, that early judgement turned out to be a fantasy for a car that wuz driven on dusty rural roads. That’s becuz another feature of the Kaiser-Frazier was a felt headliner. And, sadly, some manufacturing quirk turned the car into a passenger-sized vacuum cleaner. While being driven on dusty roads, prodigious and copious volumes of dust wuz sucked up and stored above the felt headliner. Then, every time the car hit a jarring chug-hole, a fine cloud of dust filtered through the headliner and covered all the passengers below. It wuz like riding underneath a flour sifter, only it wuz a dust sifter.

Needless to say, my sainted mother didn’t appreciate the “flour sifter” trait of the Kaiser-Frazier. She looked like a dusty vagabond ever time she went to town. So, the gift Kaiser-Frazier quickly got sold to another unsuspecting soul. In retrospect, I hope its new owner only drove on paved roads.

***

Another vintage car from my childhood memory bank wuz a yellowish “big boat Packard” driven by my maternal grandfather. It might have been a Packard Caribbean model. This would have been in the late 1940s or early 1950s.

At the time we were living on a rental farm in Bourbon County in southeast Kansas and grandpa lived in the fast lane of life in Kansas City, Mo. His Packard wuz top-of-the-line becuz grandpa wuz a successful electrical contractor at the time and he felt the need to flaunt his success. He added to his aura with a jaunty snap-brim straw hat and an ever-present Roi-Tan cigar clamped tightly in his teeth. He “ate” cigars, more than smoked them.

I loved the times grandpa drove his Packard down for a visit becuz he never failed to bring me a bunch of candy bars. That is one memory etched into me.

Another grandpa Packard memory is much more humorous. For the record, he drove fast whether it be in the city or on our dusty county line road. On one of grandpa’s visits, he wuz fogging down the county line a few miles north of our home and he drove smack through a flock of guineas dusting in the road. I never knew if he didn’t see the guineas or if he simply didn’t want to slow down for them. But, I’d bet he never hit the brakes.

What I do know is that when grandpa drive into our driveway that day, the expansive chrome grill of his expensive yellowish Packard wuz thoroughly adorned with guinea feathers, blood, guts and gore. And, grandpa had some choice words to say about guineas. I’m not sure he appreciated the belly-laughs of his son-in-law and daughter either.

***

I recall two of my uncles and aunts from my mother’s side of the family tree drove to see us on the farm in their own vintage cars. One wuz a Nash Rambler and the other wuz one of the first Volkswagen Beetles. All I remember about those cars wuz that both were too low-slung for gravel roads.
***

I’ll move along now to some of the memorable cars that I’ve owned. My first wuz a high-mileage 1953 Ford Custom Deluxe sedan. Cost me $400. It wuz junk from the get-go. The most memorable thing about that miserable car wuz that it burned up generators at a disgusting pace. And, I hope the auto engineer who decided to place the generator in a nearly-impossible-to-reach-place underneath the engine has spent his time in Hell busting his knuckles changing the brushes on those generators — in the winter.

The only good thing I can say about that ’53 Ford is that it didn’t dissuade Nevah from courting and marrying me while I owned it.

***

Our second car wuz a brand new Opel Kadett station wagon. It looked sharp at the time, but the metal in it wuz so tinny that a friend dented the fender by just leaning on it. However, it did get great mileage in the mid-1960s. I recall a round trip we made in the car from Stillwater, Okla., to Knoxville and Pigeon Forge, Tenn, and into western North Carolina — more than 2,000 miles — on less than $30 worth of 15-cent-a-gallon gasoline.

***

Another lemon of a vehicle that I owned wuz a brand new Chevy pickup truck. I know it wuz a lemon because it shelled the engine just after it passed the 25,000-mile new car warranty and General Motors virtually said, “Sorry, Bub.” I’ve never bought another Chevy truck since that day. The incident still sticks in my craw.

***

My words this week about cars and trucks are not words of wisdom, but simply my personal credo: “I’ve never been a vehicle lover. I own them because they are an expensive necessity. I own them to take care of me, not for me to take care of them. I’m a vehicle ‘appreciator’ because I appreciate when they get me from here to there in comfort and safety.”

Have a good ‘un.

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