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Wheat Scoop: Moisture Boosts Fall Wheat Outlook, but Delays Drilling

By
Guest Columnist
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For the audio version, visit kswheat.com.

Recent rains have brought much-needed soil moisture across Kansas, improving prospects for fall wheat stands. But the same weather that restored soil moisture has also slowed progress, leaving many farmers behind schedule.

 

In central Kansas, Derek Sawyer, chairman of the Kansas Wheat Commission, said planting progress in his area is only about halfway complete. Sawyer stated that KS Providence and AP Prolific are among the most commonly planted varieties this season for his area.

 

“Acres are fairly steady so far, but overall I think acres will be down because fall harvest has been delayed,” Sawyer said. “We’re up against the deadline for double-cropping behind corn or beans.”

 

According to K-State wheat production specialist Romulo Lollato, recent rainfall has provided strong moisture reserves, though planting remains well behind normal.

 

“We’ve received quite a bit of rain the last two weeks, with parts of the state close to five inches,” Lollato said. “Once fields dry, that moisture sets us up for good stand establishment.” He added that statewide planting progress is about half the long-term average for this date.

 

While moisture conditions are favorable, the season has also brought reports of fall armyworms. Damage has been mostly to early-grazing wheat, but growers are encouraged to watch for pressure on emerging stands. Lollato said fields can often recover if the pressure drops quickly, but replanting may be necessary in heavily affected areas.

 

In northwest Kansas, Chris Tanner, president of the Kansas Association of Wheat Growers, wrapped up drilling by mid-October. He said planted acres in his area are likely down this year after some producers delayed planting due to armyworm pressure. Tanner seeded AP Sunbird and KS Bill Snyder, noting that recent rains made conditions ideal for finishing the job.

 

“After a dry stretch like we’ve had, it feels great to drill into this kind of moisture,” Tanner said.

 

Concerns about wheat streak mosaic virus (WSMV) remain high as cooler weather slows volunteer control. K-State wheat pathologist Kelsey Andersen Onofre said later flushes of volunteer wheat near planting are generally lower risk.

 

“If that green bridge is gone, curl mites are likely gone too because they need living tissue,” Onofre said. K-State continues to offer free testing for volunteer wheat and grassy hosts for the wheat streak complex, helping farmers assess risk and plan management.

 

K-State’s Agronomy e-Update reports that planting in late October to early November remains acceptable in southeast and far south-central Kansas but is considered late in other areas and falls beyond full crop insurance coverage. Research from Garden City shows that delaying planting from October 1 to November 1 can delay heading by six days and reduce yield by about 23 percent.

 

To offset the effects of late planting, agronomists recommend increasing seeding rates, maintaining a planting depth of 1 to 1.5 inches, and applying starter phosphorus fertilizer with the seed. About 20 to 30 pounds per acre of phosphorus is advised to promote early growth and tillering. Grain-only wheat requires little nitrogen in the fall – roughly 20 to 30 pounds per acre is sufficient until spring topdress.

 

As fields begin to dry, producers across Kansas are expected to move quickly to wrap up planting. Despite delays, this fall’s moisture could help set the stage for strong stands heading into winter. For more information on late-planting management and fall fertility, visit K-State Agronomy’s e-Update or contact your local extension office.

Get a grip

By
Milo Yield
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0
Thayne Cozart
Milo Yield

If you browse the internet on looking for some off-the-wall “stuff,” you often are successful. My most recent internet find was about grip — as in hand-grip.

I’ve lived all my long life among farm and ranch folks and they almost universally have a strong handshake. It’s like a born-in trait. And, to me, a strong hand-grip is far superior to a milk-toast weak handshake.

Well, the article I read on the internet is about a research study that found out that handgrip strength is correlated to overall health at the age of 70.

The study measured grip strength among various categories of 93,275 folks at the age of 50 and then followed their health down through the following years.

Grip strength at the starting point turned out to be remarkable telling. When researchers divided participants into three groups by grip strength, the differences became stark over the following decade-plus. Men in the strongest group could squeeze harder than 44 kilograms. The weakest masculine group managed 36.5 kilograms or less. For women, the ranges were 26 kilograms for the strongest, versus 20.5 kilograms or less for the weakest.

Compared to the weakest group, those in the strongest category had a 20% lower risk of developing initial health problems, a 12% lower risk of progressing to multiple issues, and a 23% lower risk of dying after developing multiple conditions. People with stronger grip strength were much more likely to avoid the chronic conditions that eventually limit independence and mobility.

So, take the results of this study any way you like. But, I like to believe that a firm handshake will increase your odds of living longer and healthier. In short, a firm handshake lets you get a better grip on life.

***

The livelong residents of Riley in our old geezer gab group tell stories about eccentric folks whose lives have been entertaining in one way or another. One such guy drove a beat-up pickup truck that no one would consider stealing. However, just as a theft-preventative measure, every time he drove the truck to town, he parked it in front of a store with an awning over the sidewalk — and he tied the truck bumper to the awning post with a thick rope.

It worked, too. His truck never got stolen.

***

They also tell the story of a farmer who wuz hauling some cattle in his stock trailer in the evening when he got stopped by the police on the highway for driving with one headlight not working.

The farmer explained to the policeman that the light worked when he left his farm.

The skeptical lawman said, “I doubt that story.”

That’s when the farmer gave the headlight a swift kick and, lo and behold, the light came back on strong as the other headlight.

That’s when the officer sighed and said, “Well, that gives some truth to your story. So, get out of here before I change my mind!”

***

In a similar story, one evening a horseman wuz trailering his horse to a distant team roping. His battered pickup wuz pulling an equally battered trailer.

The guy wuz motoring along nicely when he saw blinking lights behind him and he pulled over to the side of the road.

When the deputy came up to his window, the horseman asked, “What’s the problem, sir?”

The deputy replied, “Well, all your lights are working perfectly, and it looked suspicious to me. I apologize for the inconvenience.”

***

Last week, I had a story in the column about crazy happenings at farm auctions. Here’s another farm auction story that’s the truth.

A husband and wife attended a farm auction intent upon buying an antique piece of furniture. As they had to wait for a long time before the auction got to their item, they got separated in the crowd.

When the auctioneer began his chant to sell the antique, the bidding wuz brisk. The price kept going up and up.

It wuz at that point that the auctioneer began to grin widely and some of the locals in the crowd began to chuckle.

That’s when it dawned on the hubby and wife that they’d been bidding against each other. Too late! They got their antique bought, but at quite an elevated price.

***

This ain’t a true story. A guy driving through a small rural town sees a sign that says, “Batteries — Free of Charge” stacked up in front of a service station. So he stops and takes one. But, when he gets home, he discovers that the battery is stone cold dead.

So, he calls the service station and complained. The station owner replied, “Whatcha complaining about? The battery you took has no charge.”

***

As a gardener, I’m a failure at raising melons of any kind. Well, this year, I got a few good cantaloupes to eat — just by accident. Months ago, we bought a cantaloupe at the store. After we ate it, I dumped the seeds and rinds on my compost pile. Well, a bunch of the seeds sprouted and grew, and grew, and bloomed, and grew. The result wuz we got to harvest quite a few nice melons — strictly by accident.

***

Words of wisdom for the week: “You’re living well if you’re as good a person as your dog thinks you are!” Have a good ‘un.

Horticulture 2025 Newsletter No. 19

By
Guest Columnist
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Photo courtesy: K-State Horticulture

Access the Hort Newsletter Online

ANNOUNCEMENTS
K-State Garden Hour
Wednesday, November 5, 12:00 (noon) – 1:00 PM CST
Register to attend this free live webinar at the following link: K-State Garden Hour
Gardening in a changing climate can be a challenge. Join Pam Paulsen, Reno County Horticulture Agent, to explore practical method to grow gardens that are resilient to tough growing conditions.

Kansas Turf & Landscape Conference
The 75th Annual Kansas Turf and Landscape Conference will be held on December 3 and 4 (Wednesday and Thursday) at the Hilton Garden Inn, Manhattan. The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest products and supplies from local and national vendors.

The conference has been approved for commercial pesticide recertification hours:
1 Core hour
3A 7 hours
3B 7 hours
GCSAA education points and International Society of Arboriculture CEUs will also be available by attending the conference.

Download a copy of the program, get exhibitor information or register online at:
https://www.kansasturfgrassfoundation.com/

Register before November 21 to receive a discounted rate.

GARDEN TO-DO
Check soil temperature at our Weather Data Library. Spring flowering bulbs can be planted as long as the soil temperature stays above 40 degrees F.
Harvest tomatoes/peppers before frost
Water lawn and landscape as needed even as the temperature cools
Apply late season nitrogen application to lawns in November.
Dig cannas, gladiolas, dahlias and other tender bulbs for winter storage.
Control for winter annual weeds such as henbit and chickweed as well as dandelions in the lawn.

VEGETABLES
Cool-Season Vegetable Hardiness
Don’t be fooled by the term “cool-season”. Not all cool-season crops will tolerate the winter in Kansas without protection. Semi-hardy crops such as Chinese cabbage, collard, mustard and radishes, can survive light frosts. However, when temperatures drop into the 20s, they will start to show signs of damage.

Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and other hardy vegetables will survive temperatures into the low 20s before showing damage.

Row covers can be used to protect your cool-season garden. Learn more about season extension from the Kansas Garden Guide.

Keep your Pumpkins Longer
Pumpkins that are harvested before they fully ripen will rot more quickly than those harvested at peak maturity. A mature pumpkin will have a hard rind that is solid in color. The pumpkin should also make a hollow sound when thumped. Mature pumpkins will have a waxy coating which protects them from drying out.
After harvesting, keep your pumpkins cool and out of direct sunlight. Carved pumpkins have a much shorter shelf-life, sometimes only a few days up to one week before noticeable rotting occurs. To extend the life of carved pumpkins clean the inside thoroughly, removing all seeds and loose string. Soak the inside of the pumpkin in a 10% bleach-water solution for several hours. Avoid using a real candle inside the pumpkin since the heat will speed up rotting. Pumpkins have a high-water concentration, so if there’s a freeze in the forecast, bring your jack-o-lanterns inside.

FLOWERS
Perennial Garden Clean-Up
If you’re feeling the urge to tidy up the perennial garden keep a few things in mind. Ornamental grasses and some herbaceous perennials can be left intact to provide seasonal interest. Dried foliage brings texture and color to the otherwise barren landscape while also insulating the plant crown. Wildlife can benefit from seed heads left to develop on the plant.

If your plants had disease/pest issues during the growing season that plant material should be removed and disposed of to prevent spreading. Dried ornamental grasses near structures can present a fire hazard so removing the above ground growth is recommended in this scenario.

Storing Summer Bulbs through Winter
Summer flowering “bulbs” typically do not survive the winter if left in the ground. Though commonly lumped into the category of “bulbs” canna and calla lilies are actually grown from rhizomes. Caladiums and tuberous begonias are tubers. Gladiolas grow from corms and dahlias are tuberous rooted plants. Each of these plants is sensitive to cold weather and usually don’t survive if left in the ground through winter.
After the foliage has turned brown from frost, dig up the entire plant including the root structure. Store them in a protected area for about one week. Once dry, clean the soil off the roots and package them individually in a soilless mix. Store through winter in an area that remains as close as possible to 40 degrees F. Caladiums should be stored at 50-60 degrees F.

Garden Mums
Garden mums (Chrysanthemum sp.) that have finished flowering can be cut back to two to three inches. Apply a layer of mulch over the top for protection through the winter. It is also okay to leave the top growth intact. This can provide insulation for the crown. Regardless of fall maintenance practices, garden mums should not be allowed to dry out during winter. If there has not been any rain or snow, it may be necessary to apply supplemental water.

TURF
Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail
Planting lawns in late fall lowers the success rate of the seedlings because the roots are not established enough to survive the winter weather. The repeated freezing and thawing of the soil can push out the young seedlings. This is called “heaving” and causes the exposed seedlings to dry out and die.

Tall fescue seed should be planted in September, but no later than October 15 to give seedlings enough time to develop sufficient roots. Planting after this date may be successful, but it is less certain. Newly planted lawns should be watered through fall. Even established lawns will benefit from having moist soil going into winter.

Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October-early November
The best defense against common turfgrass weeds is a dense, healthy lawn. With proper maintenance year-round, the dense lawn restricts light from reaching the soil and prevents weed seeds from germinating. Homeowners who choose the right grass species and then maintain it properly are less likely to have serious issues with weeds.

If weeds do pop up in small areas, manual removal is recommended. For taproots, such as dandelions, use a tool to help pry the deep root from the soil. In some cases, chemical removal may be warranted to keep the lawn healthy and prevent the problem from spreading.

The next step for weed control, after proper lawncare, is weed identification. If you don’t know what weed(s) you’re trying to control, you won’t be able to develop an efficient plan. This time of year, the common weeds are dandelions, henbit and chickweed. Treating the area when the weeds are small will provide the best control. For any chemicals applied, always read and follow the label carefully. Only apply chemicals on a day that is wind-free and at least 50 degrees F.

For help identifying weeds in your lawn and developing an action plan for controlling them, contact your local Extension agency.

KSRE publication: Weed Control in Home Lawns

MISCELLANEOUS
Caring for Plants Indoors
If you moved sensitive plants indoors recently you may be wondering, now what??? Hopefully you were able to transition your plants to the indoors, but if not, they may go through a period of shock. Symptoms may include: yellowing leaves, dieback and wilt. Some plants won’t survive the shock if it is extreme. Others will recover over time and with proper care. Here are some tips for providing the best conditions possible to get your houseplants through the winter.

Water and Fertilizer
Whether indoors or out, the amount of light decreases into fall and winter resulting in slower plant growth. This means the fertilizer and water needs will decrease. Only provide water when the soil is dry about one-inch deep. Fertilizer can be applied at ¼ the recommended rate in November and again in February. Plants in smaller containers often require water more frequently but less fertilizer because they have less soil. This varies based on species so do your homework and research individual plant needs.

Temperature
Temperature is another important factor for growing plants indoors. If the temperature drops below 50 degrees F, leaves of more sensitive plants may begin to yellow. Keep this in mind if you adjust the thermostat during times when nobody is home such as vacations. Avoid placing plants near heat vents where the temperature is inconsistent.

Humidity
Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air. When the humidity is lower, plants release more water from the leaves. Many common indoor plants prefer high relative humidity. To increase the relative humidity, you can create a microclimate by grouping plants closer together. Another option is to place a shallow container below each plant and fill it with water. Elevate the container by placing some gravel in the saucer so the plant isn’t soaking directly in the water. Misting plant leaves is often recommended, but is not a practical strategy to effectively increase humidity.

Light
Indoor plants should receive bright, indirect light either from a window or grow lights. Avoid placing plants too close to windows that are drafty. Some indicators that your plants are not receiving enough light include:
Elongated internodes (space between leaf/stem unions)
Pale color on new leaves
Dieback of older leaves

QUESTION of the WEEK
Can our tree be saved?
We had to have a large limb removed from this tree after it experienced damage from a storm. Can the remainder of the tree be saved?
We receive questions regularly about whether or not a damaged tree should be removed or saved. This is not surprising since most homeowners recognize the value trees bring to their landscape and the time required for a tree to reach maturity. In most cases, your Extension agent is going to recommend contacting a certified arborist to evaluate the safety of the remainder of the tree, especially if it is in an area where there are frequently people present or if structures are nearby. Safety is the priority.

Trees can be resilient if the damage is not extensive. This photo shows extreme damage. Even if this is a resilient tree, the large wound puts the tree under stress making it susceptible to diseases and pests. If the tree is not in an area where it is causing a risk to nearby structures or people there’s nothing wrong with giving it a chance to survive. If it is a safety risk then removal is the best option. With either decision, consider planting a replacement as soon as possible to fill in the canopy over time.

For tree recommendations, visit K-State’s Horticulture Resource Center. You can find a link to Recommended Plants for a variety of landscaping situations.

Contributors:
Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor
Kansas State University Extension Specialists
Kansas Garden Guide
K-State Turfgrass Extension

Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact: [email protected].

This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.
Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.
K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Cynthia Domenghini, Ph.D.
Instructor, Horticulture and Natural Resources
Kansas State University
[email protected]

 

Organic Matter

By
Guest Columnist
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0
KSU horticulture

If you only do one thing to your garden soil, add organic matter. Organic matter or compost loosens clay soil making it easier to dig and rototill. It also will add nutrients to the soil. How do we make compost and add organic matter to add to the soil? On October 30 I will have a program at the Newton Public Library at 6:30 pm called “Make The Most From Your Compost”. This is a free program but please register by calling (316) 284-6930 by October 29.

 

Fall is the time of year when nature graces us with shades of purple, red, orange, and yellow leaves to enjoy. As you take in the beautiful scenery, you may wonder: What causes the leaves to change colors in the fall? Many people believe frost is the reason, but that’s actually a myth!

During warmer months, leaves create food for tree growth. The process takes place inside of plant cell structures called chloroplasts, which contain the pigment chlorophyll. This explains why the leaves are green during spring and summer! Fall brings shorter days and cooler weather, which brings this food-making process to a halt. The green chlorophyll breaks down, and golden-colored leaves begin to appear instead. Other chemical changes may occur, which result in different leaf colors like orange, red, and even deep purple.

These leaves last briefly before fall winds and rains cause them to drop. The cells that hold the leaves to the twigs become weak because the food-making process has slowed down. That’s why leaves drop easier in the fall than in the summer when trees are actively creating food for growth. Leaf-shedding helps protect trees by making it easier for the tree to handle any snow and ice collection that may happen as the weather grows colder.

After the colorful leaves have fallen you will need to do something with them. The educational program I mentioned above “Make The Most From Your Compost” will teach you how!

Thanksgiving In A Cup

By
Debbie Dance Uhrig
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When I first wrote this recipe it was called something like, ‘Vegetable Bisque’. It received lots of accolades at work, and the staff said it needed to be named, ‘Thanksgiving In a Cup’ because that’s what it tasted like.

I think it’s another one of those soups that can be used as a nice opener instead of a salad. In the present format I’ve used it for the opener at dinner parties. However; on the flip side the staff would ask if there was any leftover as their main entree, many times.

You can reach for the pre-chopped butternut squash which is available at many big grocers. I just don’t think the flavor is as good as when a fresh butternut squash is used. A bit like the difference between a Mrs. Smith apple pie and a homemade apple pie!

As we journey through this absolutely wonderful autumn season it truly makes one want to park in the kitchen and not come up for a couple of days. I had lots of plans to bake this weekend, with all the storms I was afraid to slide any goods into the oven. The chance of losing product made me see dollar signs. Instead I enjoyed a quiet rainy day.

We also celebrated ErvIn’s birthday with a steak dinner, wild rice, salads, biscuits and dessert. It was good having our son and fiancée over for the evening. The clock is ticking on the countdown for their November wedding.

ErvIn and I are ready, now it’s just a matter of arranging a few flowers for the big day, and freezer cooking in preparation of friends and family.

I really hope you’ll find the time to give this recipe a try, you will be very surprised at the outcome. I think a little bit of Jarlsberg Cheese or perhaps a smoked cheese would be nice on top for a garnish. The Jarlsberg will have a bit of a nutty undertone, which would enhance it nicely. ‘Nutty’, that too is an option, a few sauteed pecans sprinkled over the top would be another choice.

Throw a quick pumpkin pie together with whipped cream, call over some friends and enjoy. Oh my goodness, we need to do just that this week. Our neighbors’ daughter, from Sweden is here, think I’ll use my own suggestion.

Simply Yours, The Covered Dish.

Creamy Vegetable Bisque aka ‘Thanksgiving in a cup!’

2-3 tablespoons butter

1 large onion

1/2 lb. carrots, peeled

(3-4 large carrots)

3 large gold potatoes

10-12 oz. butternut squash*

3 celery ribs

1 red bell pepper, optional

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

3 garlic cloves

3 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon dry ground thyme

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

1-2 bay leaves, optional

1 cup heavy cream

Chop onion, carrots, potatoes, squash, celery and pepper into small 1/2 inch chunks. Heat butter in a skillet and sweat the vegetables for around 8-10 minutes; until the vegetables begin to soften. Introduce garlic cloves towards the end. Sprinkle in the salt and white pepper.

 

Pour the 3 cups of chicken stock over all the ingredients. Add the thyme and bay leaves. Cook until mixture comes to a boil and the potatoes and carrots are tender when pierced with a fork. Remove bay leaves; with an immersion blender blend the ingredients until smooth. Add the ground red pepper. Slowly add the heavy cream and heat over medium to medium-low heat.

If the bisque isn’t as rich as you like add a bit more cream or fresh grated cheeses. Ladle into soup cups and garnish with a spoon of sour cream and parsley. When serving this for 20 or more I omit the sour cream and top with curled leek tops.

Yields 7-8 cups.

*Cubed butternut can be purchased at most Walmart stores.

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