For all its virtues, Kansas doesn’t have a reputation as one of America’s grandest states. Better known for its flatland prairies and wheat fields — and as the parochial setting of Dorothy’s home in The Wizard of Oz — it’s perhaps one of the last places you’d expect to find something akin to the Grand Canyon. But at the Arikaree Breaks, on the border with Nebraska, you’ll find a dramatic formation of gullies, ravines, and loess sediments stretching for 36 miles all the way to Colorado.
Granted, the Arikaree Breaks are much less imposing than Arizona’s epic natural wonder, but to find solitude at the Grand Canyon, you’ll have to take the less-traveled, backcountry route. The Arikaree Breaks, for now at least, are comparatively uncrowded. So much so that they were included in a recent Only in Your State article titled “5 Places in Kansas Locals Hope Tourists Never Discover.” Clearly, the cat is now out of the bag. But that doesn’t mean you should avoid visiting the Arikaree Breaks altogether, but rather be mindful of how to experience them.
For example, given that most of the breaks run through private property, be aware of no-trespassing signs and stick only to the areas you’re permitted to access. According to some Tripadvisor reviews, it’s better to stay on the public roads passing through a small section of the breaks and stop at lookout points — which are marked on a self-driving tour map of the area. You can pick one of these maps up at the information kiosk on Highway 36 in St. Francis, as well as at restaurants and gas stations in the town.
Exploring the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Kansas
You can get to Arikaree Breaks, around 15 miles north of St. Francis, from the Land & Sky Scenic Byway, one of the Sunflower State’s premier driving routes. Access is, however, via unpaved roads better suited to 4WD vehicles (and particularly tricky when wet). That said, the lack of public transportation or designated hiking trails means getting here by car is a must. Thankfully, Kansas is considered to have the best driving conditions in America, so it’s a great off-the-beaten-path destination for a road trip. Additionally, there are no restrooms and few amenities, so bring water, food, and sunscreen, and be prepared to carry out your trash.
When you arrive, head to Lookout Point, where you’ll get the best views of the breaks, per an online self-guided tour by Kansas Travel. Here you can appreciate how, thousands of years ago, water erosion carved up the now semi-arid region into serpentine gullies — in some places it went deep enough to reveal the much more ancient bedrock below. Though relatively treeless, which gives visitors a better sense of the breaks’ scale, grass has reclaimed the landscape. Sage bush and tufts of weeds grow on the pastures, as do 16 native plants considered rare in Kansas. Wildflowers are particularly prevalent in spring, while mule deer and various bird species can be spotted all year.
Other areas of interest around the Arikaree Breaks include Devil’s Gap, which the Cheyenne Indians used to pass through on route to Old Julesburg in 1865 — though beware that the road through here is narrow and steep. Another landmark in the breaks, Horse Thief Cave, was a two-chamber cavern used by brigands as a residence and stable for purloined horses. It can be challenging to find, so consult your guide map.
The breaks are a great option for visitors to Kansas who seek out the untrodden trail. This Three Corners region, where Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado meet, is a pretty rural patch of America, with no large population centers for more than one hundred miles. The nearest, Denver, is three hours away by car, which is just about close enough that the Arikaree Breaks might work as a day trip from America’s craft beer capital, if you’re up for it.
If you prefer to stay overnight rather than driving six hours in a day, then the nearest town of St. Francis is your best bet for accommodation near the breaks. Your options here consist of RV sites, motels, and clapboard guesthouses, which work well in tandem with the town’s provincial setting. Camping isn’t possible in the breaks, unfortunately, but campsites are available in Goodland, around 30 miles south of St. Francis. Goodland Koa Journey is a surprisingly lush, award-winning retreat with tent sites, RV spaces, and cabin-style lodging.
By David McElhinney
