https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

Blog Post: http://www.ksuhortnewsletter.org

Video of the Week: Spider Mites on Tomatoes
https://kansashealthyyards.org/all-videos/video/spider-mites-on-tomatoes

REMINDERS
• Seed beets, carrots and beans
• Never fertilize warm-season grasses such as zoysia, bermuda and buffalo after August 15
• Remove sucker growth and watersprouts from fruit trees, especially apples

Prioritizing Water in the Landscape
During periods of drought, it may be necessary to prioritize which plants will be first in line to receive supplemental water due to time and water restrictions. As with many decisions, cost plays a major role in determining where to begin watering.
Start with the large, established trees. These are the most difficult and expensive to replace if they don’t survive. They also take the longest to become established. While they may not require supplemental water during a short drought period, if it becomes prolonged established trees can still suffer. Next, care for the young trees which are still developing their root systems.
Take care of shrubs next, followed by perennials, lawn and finally, annuals. This order will direct your attention to the plants that have had the most invested in them saving you time and money if you must replace plants that don’t survive. (Cynthia Domenghini)

Watering Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs
Young trees and shrubs have not established the root system necessary to survive extreme heat and dry spells without supplemental water. After planting, it is essential to keep the root ball area moist for several weeks, but even a couple years later it may be necessary to periodically apply water to the area.
Give newly planted trees 10 gallons of water weekly. Apply the water slowly so it can sink deep into the root zone and promote new growth. Build a reservoir, about three to four-inches tall around the tree to keep the water in the desired area. Alternatively, drill a 1/8-inch hole in a plastic 5-gallon bucket. Place the bucket beneath the tree and fill with water. After it has drained fill it a second time. When it has emptied, the tree will have received ten gallons. There are also bags available commercially that serve a similar purpose. They can be secured to the tree and filled with water which then slowly enters the soil. Mulch is recommended to help retain moisture, moderate soil temperature and prevent damage to the trunk from lawn mowers and other tools. (Cynthia Domenghini)

VEGETABLES
Green Beans Producing Flowers but not Beans
Though relatively easy to grow, green beans may not produce efficiently when adequate growing conditions are not met.
Temperature is a key factor that affects bean production. High (above 85 degrees F) or low (below 70 degrees F) can cause plants to create flowers but no beans.
Periods of dryness between watering can also inhibit bean development. Hot, dry winds can exacerbate this problem.
The best way to ensure a healthy bean crop is proper crop management. Use mulch to regulate soil temperature and retain moisture. Plant a windbreak crop such as corn to shield green bean plants. Harvest beans regularly to encourage the plants to continue producing. If beans are left on the plant beyond their peak harvest time they will use energy to develop seed rather than create new beans. (Cynthia Domenghini)

FRUIT
Watering Fruit Plants During the Summer
Monitoring soil moisture of fruit crops is important to preserve the quality of the harvest. Allowing fruit crops to be under heat or drought stress during fruit development restricts cell division. This directly affects the size of the mature fruit even if additional water is added later. Drought stress can also lead to wilting and yellowing leaves as well as leaf and fruit drop. Next year’s crop could be affected too as buds may fail to develop.
The takeaway message is to monitor the soil at the rootzone to ensure proper moisture levels. This can be done by pushing a probe into the soil. A wooden dowel, rebar or even a screwdriver can work for this task. Try to insert the probe at least 8 to 12 inches. Dry soil will be very difficult to penetrate indicating water should be applied.
Add water slowly to the rootzone using a sprinkler, soaker hose, drip irrigation or other method. The amount of water necessary will vary depending on plant size, but use the soil probe as your indicator. When the probe can reach 12-inches into the soil, the moisture level should be adequate.
Monitor fruit crops weekly during hot, dry weather. Newly planted fruit crops and strawberries, with shallow root systems, will need to be checked at least twice a week for soil moisture. (Cynthia Domenghini)

TURF
Should I Water My Lawn?
We have been receiving questions recently on whether to water lawns, especially the cool-season lawns tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass can go drought dormant for 6 to 8 weeks without harm. Therefore, some homeowners allow their lawn to go dormant during summers such as this. However, when the rains return, the grass will be thin and weeds may become a problem. The weeds can be controlled but that adds an additional expense. Also, if we reach that 6-week period, the grass needs to be given 1/4″ of water a week to keep the crown hydrated so the turf doesn’t die.
If your lawn has been dormant for a while and are wondering if the turf is still alive, pull up an individual plant and separate the leaves from the crown. The crown is the area between the leaves and the roots. If it is still hard and not papery and dry, the plant is still alive.
If you want to keep the grass going through the summer, wait until you see spots in the lawn turn a purplish hue and then water well so the soil is moist about 6 inches deep. Continue to do this until the rains return. Of course, watering more won’t hurt except for your water bill. (Ward Upham)
Crabgrass Control
You may have noticed a lighter green, low-growing grass amongst your lawn. Crabgrass tends to make its appearance this time of year, particularly in areas where the lawn is less dense. Identified by the wide, flat blades, crabgrass is a warm-season annual. It dies back either after flowering and setting seed or with the first hard frost. However, it is very efficient at reproduction leaving behind thousands of seeds to invade the lawn next year. Though not particularly harmful, when it dies back in August large sections can leave unsightly bare spots in the lawn. Fortunately, cool-season grasses should also begin to flourish this time of year so if the crabgrass infestation is minimal, treatment is not necessary.
Aside from manually removing plants, crabgrass can be difficult to control once it has germinated. Therefore, prevention is the best approach for controlling crabgrass. Maintaining a thick, healthy lawn will prevent crabgrass seeds from germinating. Mow your lawn no shorter than three-inches which will help prevent sunlight from reaching the seeds on the soil surface. Around mid-April apply a pre-emergent to combat seeds from the previous growing season.
At this point in the season, it is too late for a crabgrass preventer. If manual removal is not an option there are some herbicides that will kill crabgrass plants including: Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Fertilome Weed-Out with Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad and BioAdvanced Lawn Weed & Crabgrass Killer. Each contains quinclorac, which is a crabgrass herbicide, as well as other active ingredients that control broadleaf weeds. Quinclorac is an excellent crabgrass killer that controls not only crabgrass but also has good activity on foxtail and certain broadleaves such as field bindweed, black medic and clover. However, it does little to nothing to goosegrass. If you use crabgrass killer on your lawn bag the clippings. Do not use them as mulch or in compost. (Cynthia Domenghini)

PESTS
Cicada Killer Wasps
Description: At about 1 ½-inches long, cicada killers are an intimidating wasp. They have reddish colored wings and legs and a black abdomen with wide, yellow stripes. Cicada killers live independently though nests may be relatively close to each other. Females have a stinger which is used to paralyze their prey. They rarely sting people unless agitated. Males are smaller and do not have a stinger.
Females are responsible for locating cicadas and paralyzing them with their stinger. She then carries the cicada back to her burrow. Each burrow can house up to 20 cicadas.
Life Cycle: Adult females lay a single egg on each cicada they drag into the ground. Eggs hatch in two to three days into legless, white grubs which feed on the cicada. The larvae then create a protective case in which to overwinter. Adult wasps die in early fall. In spring the larvae pupate in the pupal cases and emerge as adults in June/July. There is one generation per year of cicada killers.
Damage: Cicada killers typically cause very little damage to the landscape. A heavy infestation may become a nuisance as they protect their nests. The burrows may be considered unsightly, especially in a lawn area.
Control: Cicada killers prefer well-drained, light soils in full sun. They may burrow along sidewalks or flowerbeds but do not like areas covered with mulch. Maintaining a thick, healthy lawn is the best control for preventing burrows. Pesticides are not usually necessary since adults are only present for about two months beginning mid to late summer, but Permethrin may be used for control. Treat the burrows at dusk when females have returned. Males are often found perched nearby. Products with permethrin include:
(Dusts) Eight Garden Dust – Bonide, Multipurpose Garden and Pet Dust – Green Thumb Garden, Pet & Livestock Dust – Hi-Yield
(Liquids) 38 Plus Turf, Termite & Ornamental Insect Spray – Hi-Yield, Eight Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Conc. – Bonide, Eight Yard & Garden RTS – Bonide, Garden and Farm Insect Control- Hi-Yield (Cynthia Domenghini)

MISCELLANEOUS
Wood Chips as Mulch
Mulching the landscape is a recommended practice to moderate soil temperature and moisture and prevent weeds. Wood chips created by tree trimming companies can be an inexpensive way to mulch around trees and shrubs in the landscape. Homeowners have some concerns about the effect green wood chips may have on their landscape plants.
Will using fresh wood chips as mulch deplete nitrogen from the soil? Microorganisms found in the soil break down organic matter using nitrogen from the soil. Wood chips are very low in nitrogen so more is pulled from the soil to break down the wood chips making the nitrogen less available for the desired plants. However, when used only on the surface as a mulch, this is not a concern. It is not recommended to incorporate fresh wood chips into the soil. Recognize the difference between mulch and compost.
Will wood chips from a diseased tree spread the disease into my landscape? The short answer is “it could.” However, if handled properly, the wood chips can be safely used in the landscape. If it is known that the wood chips are from a diseased tree, allow them time to dry out completely before spreading in the landscape. To be safe, avoid spreading the mulch around trees of the same species where the wood chips originated.
Will using wood chips near my home encourage termites? This can be a concern if the wood chips are mulched right up to the foundation of the house. Termites are light and heat sensitive and will not bother the chips themselves if they are 3 inches deep or less. Therefore, keep the depth of the mulch less than three-inches near the house and other buildings. Also, leave a bare area several inches wide next to the house so that any termite activity is noticeable. (Cynthia Domenghini)

Contributors:
Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor
Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact: [email protected] OR [email protected]
This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at: http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html
The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected] or [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.

Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, as amended. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, and United States Department of Agriculture
Cooperating, Ernie Minton, Dean.

https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html

Blog Post: http://www.ksuhortnewsletter.org

Video of the Week: Composting: Making Black Gold
https://kansashealthyyards.org/all-videos/video/composting-making-black-gold

REMINDERS
• Divide iris if needed.
• Do not fertilize the warm-season turfgrasses, buffalograss, zoysiagras and bermudagrass, past August 15. Doing so may increase the chances for winter damage.
• Check mulch layers and add additional material if needed.

VEGETABLES
Still Time for a Salad Garden
Though we’re very much still experiencing the heat of summer it’s time to make plans for fall gardening. Choose crops that tolerate the weather as it turns cooler, but also the warm soil at planting. Cool season vegetables can be started from mid-August through early September. Some leafy greens that tolerate these conditions include: green and red leaf lettuce, kale, spinach, mustard, bok choy and endive. Radishes, beets and carrots are also good fall crops that can be tossed into a salad.
Prior to planting, turn the soil and incorporate a balanced fertilizer to replenish the garden from the previous crop. (Cynthia Domenghini)

FRUIT
When Are Apples Ready to Pick?
Apples mature over a long period of time depending on variety. Some varieties such as Lodi can mature in July and others as late as October or even November. Here are some guides to help you decide when to pick your apples.
Days from bloom: The number of days from bloom is a reliable guide for general maturity time, but weather conditions will have some influence. Some kinds of apples and approximate days from bloom to maturity are Jonathan, 135, Delicious, 145, Golden Delicious, 145, and Winesap,155 days.
Flesh color: As apples mature and starches change to sugars, the flesh changes from very light green to white. When you cut a thin slice and hold it up to the light you can see the difference.
Seed color: The seeds of most apples change from light green to brown as the fruit ripens. This indicator should be combined with other changes since it is not absolute. The flavor of the apples, the change in color of the stem and calyx basins and flesh color are important in deciding if apples are ready to harvest.

Color change: As apples mature, the skin color in areas of the stem and the calyx basin at the bottom of the apple turns from an immature green to a light-yellow color. Some apples will develop a red skin color over most of the fruit before they are ripe, so this is not a reliable indication of maturity.
Flavor: This is a good guide if you are familiar with the apples, you have and know how they should taste. Even if you do not know the characteristic flavor of the kind of apple you have, you can still sample slices of a few apples and decide if they have a sweet flavor. If they are not ready to harvest, they will taste starchy or immature. If apples have already fallen and taste a bit starchy, store them for a period to see if they become sweeter. (Ward Upham)

Fertilize Strawberries
Early- to mid-August is the time to fertilize strawberries in order to increase the number of fruits produced next spring. Plenty of daylight and warm temperatures during June, July and August promotes the growth of new runner, or daughter, plants. As daylight hours dwindle and temperatures grow cooler in September and October, fruit buds for the next year’s fruit crop develop. To get a good berry crop next spring, it is important for strawberry plants to be vigorous during this period of fruit bud development. Nitrogen, applied now, will help promote fruit bud development. A general application rate is ^ to 3/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. The nitrogen may be in the form of a fertilizer mixture such as ammonium phosphate or 12-12-12, or in a fertilizer containing only nitrogen such as urea or ammonium nitrate. Some specific examples would include:

Iron + (11-0-0) at 6 pounds per 100 feet of row.
12-12-12 at 5.5 pounds per 100 feet of row.
Nitrate of Soda (16-0-0) at 4 pounds per 100 feet of row.
Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) at 3 pounds per 100 feet of row.
Urea (46-0-0) at 1.5 pounds per 100 feet of row.

Generally, each cup of fertilizer weighs ^ pound. On sandy soils, the rate may be increased by about one-half.?
After spreading the fertilizer, water the area applying at least 1/2-inch of water to move the nitrogen into the strawberry root areas. (Ward Upham)

PESTS
Mimosa Webworm on Honeylocust
Description: Larvae of Mimosa webworms are about one-inch long and light green to gray/brown with five longitudinal stripes on the body. The adult moths are silver-grey and have small black spots on the wings.
Life Cycle: There are two generations of Mimosa webworm each year. The first-generation moths emerge in early June and lay eggs on the honeylocust leaves. Caterpillars can be seen from mid-June through early July. The second generation of moths appear in mid to late July to lay another round of eggs. The larvae from this generation feed from early to late August.
Damage: Though Mimosa webworms can defoliate trees, healthy, established trees tend not to suffer greatly. Damage is primarily aesthetic as the larvae create tight webs of silk around the leaflets. Foliage in the webs turns brown and is unsightly. Additionally, the silk hanging from the trees as the larvae lower to the ground is a nuisance.

Control: Chemical control is not typically necessary. Treatment is ineffective if applied this time of year when the webs and brown leaves are already present. At the beginning of the caterpillar phase, prior to webbing, an insecticide can be used. BT (Dipel or Thuricde) or spinosad (Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew, Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater and Monterey Garden Insect Spray) can be used as well as traditional controls that contain cyfluthrin or bifenthrin. If you’re having problems with Mimosa webworms now, plan to apply treatment mid-June and possibly again in early August of next year. (Cynthia Domenghini)

MISCELLANEOUS
Plants for Late Season Bloom
Landscapes are often drab this time of year. You can add interest to your home by planting shrubs this fall or next spring that flower later in the growing season. Consider one or more of the following.
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is a tall shrub that produces single or double flowers. Colors range from white to red, purple or violet, or combinations, depending on the variety.
Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) are dwarf-to-tall shrubs or trees. They are not reliably winter hardy in Kansas and often die back to the ground. Crapemyrtle flowers on new wood, so plants pruned (or killed) to the ground while dormant in late winter or early spring will bloom later the same year. Flower color varies from white, pink, to purple or deep red on different plants.
Bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis) is also known as blue-spirea, blue-mist shrub, or caryopteris. It usually is found with blue flowers, but some cultivars have a bluish-violet to violet flower color. Plants are usually cut back in late winter or early spring. Flowers are borne on the current season’s growth.
Sweet Autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora) is a vigorous vine with large masses of small, white flowers that have a wonderful fragrance. Be careful with this one; it can easily outgrow its bounds. It is often a good idea to cut it back to the ground in early spring.
Davidiana clematis (Clematis heracleifolia var. Davidiana) is a bush-type clematis with small but interesting violet-blue flowers. Female plants bear interesting fluffy seed heads into the winter. This clematis needs to be cut back to the ground each year to help maintain the shape of the plant.
PeeGee hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora) are somewhat coarse with large clusters of white flowers. They can be trained into a tree-like form. (Ward Upham)

Composting: The Science
Using compost in the landscape provides plenty of benefits for the soil including improved water holding capacity, drainage and added nutrients. Understanding the science behind composting makes it a feasible project that can turn waste into treasure.
Composting is a process that occurs naturally as organic materials breakdown in the landscape. This process can be expedited by balancing the ingredients and maintaining air circulation to create a healthy environment for bacteria, actinomycetes and fungi work to decompose different compost particles and thrive at various temperatures. Psychrophilic bacteria are most active when the temperature is around 55 degrees F. As these bacteria work, they generate some heat creating a warmer environment for the mesophilic bacteria which prefer 70 to 100 degrees F.
Thermophilic bacteria prefer even hotter temperatures and take over the decomposing work when the pile reaches between 100- and 160-degrees F. After their work is done and the temperature leaves the preferred range, the microorganisms die off.
Actinomycetes are important to the decomposition of materials such as lignin and cellulose. As the pile cools down, actinomycetes and fungi take over along with invertebrates such as earthworms and centipedes. These are considered “finishers” in the composting process.
The heating and cooling process of composting is what supports the life cycle of the microbes and expedites decomposition. Next week’s article will include details about what is needed to make a compost pile. Follow the link below for more information about compost microbes. https://calrecycle.ca.gov/organics/homecompost/microbes/ (Cynthia Domenghini)
Contributors:
Cynthia Domenghini, Instructor
Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173

For questions or further information, contact: [email protected] OR [email protected]
This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html
The web version includes color images that illustrate subjects discussed. To subscribe to this newsletter electronically, send an e-mail message to [email protected] or [email protected] listing your e-mail address in the message.

Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

K-State Research and Extension is committed to making its services, activities and programs accessible to all participants. If you have special requirements due to a physical, vision or hearing disability, or a dietary restriction please contact Extension Horticulture at (785) 532-6173.

Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, as amended. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, and United States Department of Agriculture Cooperating, Ernie Minton, Dean.